Dip into Armenian Ghat, Kolkata

Superimposing Google earth image on a

Plan of Calcutta 1857by Fedrick Walter 

Simms, Con. Engr.to Gov of India

History says that Armenians in Calcutta were very numerous already in Captain Alexandar Hamilton time who spent his time from 1688 to 1723 AD in Calcutta. Armenitola in Barrabazar where initially Armenian’s stayed. Armenians mainly trades Indian Spices and Tea etc from India. They had trade agreement with East India Company. There was Armenian Tea Warehouse on Strand Road. One of the major contribution of Armenians towards the city was Armenian Ghat. 

Detailed map of Armenian Ghat
compiled from old maps. 

Armenian Ghat on River Hooghly has a long interesting history to tell. Today peoples know Armenian ferry Ghat as Armenian Ghat though ferry ghat has hardly any connection with Armenian Ghat. Peoples may be used to call ferry ghat as Armenian Ghat.

It’s said that, originally this ghat was built by Manual Hazar Malian, an Armenian who added steeple in Armenian Church in 1734 AD. After whom this ghat known as Armenian Ghat. Location of Armenian Ghat was on Strand Road at the north side of old Motilal Seal Ghat and just south of Raja Woodmount Street. In today’s perspective, present Circular Railway line was the river bank line in that time and East Indian Railway Station was on the site of erstwhile Strand Warehouse. There was a hackney Carraige stand just beside of E.I. Railway Station at Armenian Ghat. Beside Hackney carraige Strand Armenian Bathing ghat was there. As you seen above, a map of 1858 AD superimposed with current google earth imagery, just for a comparative study in present scenario. 

Esq. John Baghshaw (1784-1861)
Courtesy Harwichabddoyercourt.co.uk 

Chandpal, Colvin’s, Police, Coila, Smithson’s, Armenian, Babee Ross’s, Burraah Bazar, New Mint and Baboo ghat is used as public ferry jetties. There is steamship service from Armenian Ghat to Ghatal.  Upto 1847 AD there was no fixed regulation, no fixed fares, and no registration of boats for public ferry. These ferry boats frequently fall in accidents being overloaded, by which great loss of life and property was sustained. The wife and elder daughter (Rebecca Baghshaw,37 years and Catharine Baghshaw,16 years respectively) of Esq. John Baghshaw (1784-1861, an East India Company Merchant and head of the firm Baghshaw & Co. of Calcutta,) drowned by the upsetting pinnace near Armenian Ghat on 19^th Oct 1820. An Ayah and some Dandies are also stated to have perished by this accident. These incidents reported in The Asiatic Journal and monthly register for British India in Vol-XI Jan-June 1821. The mortal remains interred at South Park Street Burial Ground with memorial plaque.

From 15 August 1854, East India Railway Co.

Etched on stone,
at Howrah Station
 old complex.

started railway services from, Howrah to Hooghly. From 1854 to 1874, East India Railway Co had passenger Station at Armenian Ghat from where passengers booked their tickets and fare covered the ferry to Howrah.  Passengers were ferried through the launches run by the East Indian Railways to the Howrah Station to board their train. This system of Conduit of passengers, however become dysfunctional with the commissioning of the floating Howrah Bridge on 17.10.1874. After then its landing stages used for ferry only when floating bridge opened for passage of ships. 

Kolkata side riverfront land from Chandpal Ghat to Aihiritola Ghat made over to Port Commissioners in 1874 except land of East Indian Railway Station at Armenian Ghat. Upto 1876, East Indian Railway Station area not handed over to Port Commissioners even though Port Commissioners Tramways has been laid from Baghbazar to Armenian Ghat and also inside the jetty enclosures, but the connection of the jetty with the inland wharfs and East Bengal Railway lines is barred by objection raised on the part of E.I. Railway to allow Commissioners tramways passes through the Armenian Ghat Station. Its pertinent to mention here that East India Railway Station and Armenian Ghat Station is different entity. Administration Report of 1876-77 of the ‘Commissioners for Making Improvements in the Port of Calcutta’ tells interesting facts how Armenian Ghat site, Armenian Ghat Station made over to Port Commissioners on certain terms and conditions. “When the strand bank was made over by Government, a reservation was made of that piece of land whereon the station of the East Indian Railway Company is erected and built. It was then supposed that on the construction of the Hooghly Bridge being completed, and communication thereby opened with the railway station at Howrah, that piece of land would be no longer required by the Railway Company, and would then be given up by them, In a note by Lieutenant-Colonel F. S. Taylor, Consulting Engineer to the Government of India, dated 5th February 1876, it is observed that, " on the completion and opening of the Hooghly Floating Bridge, the passenger station at Armenian Ghat was closed, but the landing-stages are still used to a limited extent, chiefly when the bridge is opened for the passage of ships." Colonel Taylor suggested that “the site be now restored to Government for transfer to the Port Trust, who can utilize it most advantageously ; " but, he stated, "the Agent and the Board of Directors are desirous of retaining it as an office for the Traffic Manager, East Indian Railway Company." Colonel Taylor was also of opinion that " the interests of the public will best be met by "leaving the landing-stage and approaches to Armenian Ghat in the hands of the East Indian Railway Company, and transferring the remainder of the site to the Port Commissioners, on condition that compensation be paid by the Commissioners to the Company for the buildings surrendered, and that the Port Commissioners construct a new approach road and remove a portion of the covered way as shown on the plan."

Armenian Warehouse of Kolkata Port Trust

After 1874, Strand Bank land reclaimed part by part, Strand Bank Road constructed, Commissioners tram lines layed. Later Armenian Ghat site made over to Port Commissioners. A big warehouse namely Strand warehouse was constructed on the site of EI Railway station shed.  After construction of Strand Bank Road, on Riverside a warehouse was erected by the Port Commissioners which named as Armenian Warehouse. Though in 2010, Strand warehouse was gutted in a devastating fire but Armenian warehouse still exist and carries legacy of Armenian Ghat.

Find This Place on Google Map.

Information Source:
Kolikata Darpon 1 By Radharomon Mitra
Administration Report of 1876-77 of the ‘Commissioners for Making Improvements in the Port of Calcutta’
Story of Ghaut of River Hooghly Published By Kolkata Port Trust. 
Third Report of The Committe appointed by The Right Honorablev the Govenor of Bengal..1847

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Least Explored Rameswarnath Temple

Dense forest of Jungle Mohol, Silvery bank of river Subarnarekha, Deulbar village of Nayagram block of West Midnapore District takes you to a ruins of sixteen century temple named Rameswarnath Temple (22.1465801N, 87.0542059 E). It is said that in the sixteenth century AD, Raja Chandraketu, 4^th King of Nayagram Royal family was visited By Rama in dream and asked to build a temple of Siva with one thousand faces.

Map showing the location of Rameswarnath Temple.

Only some remains of this temple can be can be seen now.  A series of old

Ruins of old temple

curved pillars strand  to remind you the past glories. Standing on the high rugged rocks, originally this temple was Pancharatna Sikhara Temple with Biman and Jagmohon. Made of laterite stone having carving the roof and wall. L S S O’Malley has written about this temple in Bengal District Gazetteers in the year of 1911.  It is said that temple destroyed in devastrating flood. 

Now, rameswarnath Temple

On the ruins of old temple, a relatively new temple was constructed.Height of this temple is said to be 75 meter. Its made in Orissa Architectural style, Biman (housing of inner sanctum) Jagmohan (assembly area)and Natmandir(dancing hall).  There are three flying lion on Biman. Like other Shiva temple, there is a rectangular holy pond just beside the temple. A mela is held every year on the occasion of Shivratri. 

Distance from Jhargram  rail station is  43 km and a journey to Deulbar hardly one hour. Rameswarnath temple and surrounding area developed as a tourist destination from west Bengal Government in recent years like Guest House, Rameswar Park, a watch tower etc. You can also stay at Guest House namely Rameswar Atihiti Niwas under Nayagram Development Board which is adjacent to the temple. Sarroundings destination can be tapoban, Sahasralinga temple, Chandrarekha Garh, Khekar Garh, Kalua Sarr Temple and Kurumberaa Fort at Keshiary. The lusting greenery, lap of nature will surprise you for sure.

Find this place on Google Map.

Information Source:
L S S O’Malley: Bengal District Gazetteers 1911. 

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Kurumbera Fort - A Splendid Edifice

Karambera Fort

A Mughal settlement once upon a time, once famous for large Tussur silk manufacture - Keshiary of West Midnapur has a more than 550 years old splendid edifice of stone namely Kurumbera Fort (22°5'15.27"N, 87°15'18.34"E).Located within few kilometre of Keshiary at village Gaganeswar. Its doesn't look like anyway but its named as fort. Originally its a Shiva Temple named Gaganeswar later it renamed as Fort.  Kesiary is well connected to Kolkata via Kharagpur by the NH-6 followed by NH 60. Get down at Kukai stop on Belda Keshiary Road,  Gaganeswar village is about 4 km on west. Take the concrete roadway to reach at Gaganeswar from Kukai bus stop.

Plan of Keshiary showing location of Gaganeswar

History says, Maharaj Kopileswar of the Deb Raj family of Orrissa whose dominion was included the southern portion of present Midnapore, built this temple in the middle of 15th century (A.D. 1438-1469)  wherein he established the image of Mahadev named Gaganeswar. On the North there is tank which was excavated and named it as Jogeswar Kundo. This tank still exist now.Its very common with Siva temple attached with a tank.

Birds eye view

The Afgan Sultanate of Bengal & Bihar invaded Odisha which included undivided Midnapore district of West Bengal in the year 1568. Later Mughals occupied Odisha after defeating Afgans of Bengal in the battle of Tukaroi in the year 1575. Gaganeswar Shiva temple was destroyed and on the western side a Mosque was constructed by the MD Taher in the era of Aurungzeb and it was completed in 1691. Afterwards being defeated by the  Maratthas at a place named Mogolmari, they left Keshiree. Then Maratthas take charge of this temple. In course of time the place was overgrown with thick jungle. One Banamali Panda of Gaganeswar  with permission and assistance of Mr. Donelly, Collector of Midnapore cleared of Jungle, and discovered in well the image of Mahadeb broken into two parts. Currently fort is  under maintenance of Archaeological Survey of India.

Inside the Fort

In architectural point of view, Kurumbera Fort was build in Oridsi architectural style. A rectangular cloistered, laterite stone made enclosure 172'- 9" in north-south and 253'-6" in east-west side with a huge courtyard inside.The walls are 12 to 15 feet in height. Inside at the east end facing west, ruin of the temple Gaganeswar while at the western end facing east, inside the enclosure stands a three domed mosque though not worshiped now.   On the inner side along the wall a pillared veranda runs along the entire length of the enclosure wall, excepting the gateway at North with is the only access to the interior. But upon intricate watching on the outside walls it was found that there may be access from East and west side also once upon a time,later it was modified/closed by stone. On the western side just behind the Mosque there is significant  change in the pattern of outer wall which proves that there was an opening.

Lotus on Roof and Decorative Column

On the western side of wall stone etched inscription in Uriya stating when and whom it was build but many of the character are illegible owing. The ceiling slab of each cloisters is carved with a lotus. Canter of the lotus is decorated with an elevated stone edifice but over time fallen from  the roof most of the cases.

  Traces of opening

Ruin of Temple and Mosque

It’s no doubt Kurumbera Fort has huge potential in terms of Tourism aspect. Recent development on Mugolmari site, Kurumbera Fort, Rameswar Temple, Tapobon, Kalua Sanr temple with charming beauty of Green Jangal Mohal with silvery beach of river Subarno Rekha have every potential to be developed as a tourism circuit as a weekend destination for sure.

Find this place in Google Map.

Information Source :

A list of object of Antiquarian Interest in the lower provinces of Bengal 1879: compiled at the bengal Secretariat under the orders of the Government of India.
More stories of Kurumbera Fort :
Visit to Kurumbera Fort:Life beyond IIT kharagpur campus
KURUMBERA FORT: Tucked away in oblivion | KolkataOnWheels

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